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Bulk herb guide

Tarragon: Flavor, Cooking Uses, and French vs Russian vs Mexican

Updated

Loose dried herbs and rose petals spread on a wooden surface

The quick answer

Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus) is a perennial herb in the daisy family with narrow green leaves and a sweet, licorice-like flavor that comes mostly from a compound called estragole. French tarragon is the variety cooks want; Russian tarragon is coarser and much milder, and Mexican tarragon is a different plant, a marigold, with a similar anise taste. Tarragon is the key herb in béarnaise sauce and one of the French fines herbes. We sell organic dried tarragon leaf by weight in the bulk herb section of our Richmond store.

What is tarragon?

Tarragon is a bushy perennial in the Asteraceae (daisy) family, with slim, slightly twisted dark green leaves. The USDA plant guide lists it as a native North American herb and describes plants roughly 1.5 to 5 feet tall. In French it is called estragon. The Latin species name dracunculus means little dragon, which the Herb Society of America connects to the plant's coiled, snaking roots or its tongue-shaped leaves.

The leaves taste of licorice or anise (University of Illinois Extension). That anise note comes mainly from estragole, an aroma compound also found in basil, fennel and anise (European Medicines Agency).

French vs Russian vs Mexican tarragon

Three different plants are sold as tarragon, and they are not equal in the kitchen.

Type Botanical name Flavor How it grows Best for
French tarragon Artemisia dracunculus var. sativa Strong, sweet anise Flowers are sterile, so it is grown from divisions or cuttings, not seed All classic tarragon cooking
Russian tarragon Artemisia dracunculoides (also listed as a form of A. dracunculus) Weak, grassy, little anise Grows from seed; taller, coarser and hardier Rarely used in cooking
Mexican tarragon (Mexican mint marigold) Tagetes lucida Mild anise and tarragon with hints of mint and cinnamon A marigold that thrives in heat and humidity A fresh substitute in hot climates

If you buy "tarragon seed" for the garden, it is almost always Russian tarragon, because French tarragon cannot be grown from seed (University of Illinois Extension). French tarragon is also notoriously hard to grow in hot, humid places, which is why gardeners in Florida and similar climates grow Mexican tarragon instead (University of Florida IFAS Extension).

Fresh vs dried tarragon

Fresh tarragon has the brightest flavor, and University of Illinois Extension notes that some of its flavor is lost when the leaves are dried. Dried tarragon is milder, but it keeps much longer and works well in dishes that simmer.

  • Conversion: use about 1 teaspoon of dried tarragon for every 1 tablespoon of fresh (Penn State Extension).
  • When to add it: add dried tarragon early to sauces, soups and braises so it can soften and release flavor. Add fresh tarragon near the end.
  • Wake it up: crumble dried leaves between your fingers before adding them, or steep them in the warm butter, cream or vinegar the recipe uses.

How to cook with tarragon

Tarragon is a cornerstone of French cooking and shows up across the Caucasus and the Middle East.

  • Béarnaise sauce. Britannica calls tarragon essential to this famous French sauce, in which butter is whisked into egg yolks and a reduction of vinegar and shallots. Tarragon gives béarnaise its signature taste.
  • Fines herbes. A French blend of finely minced fresh herbs used for omelets, soups and sauces (Dictionary.com). Parsley, chervil and chives form the base, and the Herb Society of America notes French tarragon is a traditional member of the mix.
  • Chicken and eggs. Tarragon is a classic seasoning for roast or creamy chicken dishes, omelets and egg salads.
  • Fish and vegetables. Tarragon butter on salmon, or tarragon with asparagus and tomatoes (University of Illinois Extension).
  • Tarragon vinegar and oil. Tarragon is steeped in vinegar or oil to flavor vinaigrettes, marinades and salads (University of Illinois Extension).
  • Tarkhuna. In Georgia, tarragon flavors a bright green soda called tarkhuna, created in 1887 by Mitrofan Lagidze, a pharmacist in the city of Kutaisi (The Takeout).

Substitutes for tarragon

The best stand-ins share tarragon's anise note, and several contain the same estragole compound.

  • Chervil: delicate, with a faint licorice taste. It is tarragon's partner in fines herbes and the closest match in French dishes.
  • Fennel fronds: the feathery tops of fennel bulbs, good chopped into sauces and over fish.
  • A pinch of anise or fennel seed: grind a very small amount to add licorice flavor to a sauce when you have no tarragon at all.
  • Mexican tarragon: use the fresh leaves, added near the end of cooking.

How to store dried tarragon

Keep dried tarragon in an airtight jar in a cool, dry, dark cupboard, away from the stove, sink and sunny windows. Penn State Extension notes that most dried herbs keep well for about a year. Whole or cut leaves hold their flavor longer than powders. If it no longer smells sweet when you crush a pinch, it is time for a fresh supply.

Is tarragon safe?

The FDA lists tarragon among spices generally recognized as safe, so using it as a kitchen herb is fine for most people. The caution is about estragole. In mouse studies, estragole caused liver tumors, and the European Medicines Agency recommends keeping estragole exposure low for young children and for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. The same agency judged that short-term adult use of estragole-containing herbal medicines at recommended doses does not pose a significant cancer risk. A pinch of dried herb in a sauce is a very different exposure from a concentrated oil. Avoid concentrated tarragon essential oil and tarragon supplements during pregnancy, while breastfeeding and for children.

Find it at William's

We carry organic tarragon leaf, cut and sifted, from Starwest, sold by weight in our bulk herb section. Cut and sifted leaf crumbles easily into sauces, dressings and spice blends, and buying by weight means you can take home just enough to stay fresh within the year. We don't currently list fresh tarragon plants or Mexican tarragon online; call the store to check what's on the shelf.

Tarragon pairs well with a good finishing salt; read about grey French salt in our Celtic sea salt guide. For more aromatic kitchen ideas, see our guides to coriander oil and Kerala spices.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does tarragon taste like?

Tarragon tastes sweet and licorice-like, similar to anise or fennel. French tarragon has the strongest flavor; Russian tarragon is much milder.

What is tarragon used for in cooking?

It is best known in béarnaise sauce and the French fines herbes mix. It is also used with chicken, eggs, fish, asparagus and tomatoes, to make tarragon vinegar, and to flavor the Georgian soda tarkhuna.

How much dried tarragon equals fresh?

Use about 1 teaspoon of dried tarragon for every 1 tablespoon of fresh. Dried tarragon is milder, so taste and adjust.

What is a good substitute for tarragon?

Chervil is the closest match in French dishes. Fennel fronds or a tiny pinch of ground anise or fennel seed can add a similar licorice note. Fresh Mexican tarragon also works well.

Is tarragon safe during pregnancy?

Tarragon in normal cooking amounts is generally considered fine. The European Medicines Agency advises keeping estragole exposure low during pregnancy and breastfeeding, so skip concentrated tarragon oil and supplements and ask your clinician if you have questions.

Is tarragon the same as anise?

No. They are different plants that share a similar licorice flavor, partly because both contain estragole. Tarragon is a leafy herb in the daisy family, while anise is grown for its seeds.

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For general information only, not medical advice. These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. Products mentioned are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. Talk to a healthcare provider about your own situation.